Kissing the Lipless - An Exploration in Limoges

Here it is finally! I started this video back in october when I first got to France and then it quickly became rainy and cold and I had to wait until spring to finish it. Makes me a bit homesick for my old room at Donzelot. I had to make it a real small size to get it to upload and the quality suffers a bit but such is life. Enjoy :)

Château de Châlucet

Several days before my departure and return to the US, Dominique, who lives part time at the school where I was living, offered to take me to Château de Châlucet. The castle, built in the 12th century, is in ruins now and you can't go in it but its well worth the trip out to see it. We got to the castle in the morning on a thursday and had the ruins completely to ourselves. What we both really enjoyed about this castle is that it is completely surrounded by beautiful flowers and vegetation. Here are some pictures, enjoy.

Creep People Party! Oh I mean Crepe....

Right before my sad/happy return to America, Remi and his family and girlfriend agreed to teach me the French art of crepe making! Turns out the recipe is pretty simple but making a beautiful crepe is not!

We tried to different variations of crepe batter - one with milk and a touch of rum and one with half milk and half beer. I think it was pretty much unanimous that the beer batter was the more flavorful and enjoyable of the two - which surprised me as Im not too crazy about beer.

So here you have it:

Simple Crepes
(makes about a dozen)

3 eggs
250 grams of flour
1/2 liter of milk (or half milk, half beer)
1 soup spoon of vegetable oil
a pinch of salt
a shot of rum (exclude if you are doing half beer)

Put all your ingredients in a blender and blend until....well blended. The tricky part is mastering the wrist motion for getting the perfect crepe. You may have noticed in the pictures that my crepes have substantial craters and holes in them. Im a beginner, obviously.



Ryan is going to be buying me a late birthday present of a brand new crepe pan (this present seems like it has some selfish motivation, but I wont say anything because im thrilled to be getting it :) so I fully intend to be an expect come next February 2nd, which is the celebration of La Chandeleur in France. As with all religious holidays in France - there is a certain food eaten in celebration. February 2nd is the crepes day to be flipped and filled and stuffed into mouths.

In preparation for this occasion Remi's mom equipped me with a gold coin and instructed me to flip a crepe up into the air and catch it in the pan, while holding the pan. If I could do this successfully my family would prosper for the rest of the year. You're welcome family - I caught it.



Remi's mom gave me a little book of crepe recipes before I left and promised that when I come back to Limoges she will give me a confiture (jam) recipe book so I can make all kinds of tasty fillings for my crepes.

Look for more crepe posts in my future - sugary and salty ones and for sure some dairy-free and vegan ones. Gluten free for my friend Johanna? Lets see what we can do here...

Coast to Cote Week 20 + pictures from the farm

Sorry this is late - I just got back from France on Monday and I have been simultaniously trying to catch up on hours, see my friends, and organize/find all the crap I packed and then shoved into closets and basements before I left.



Pang: I might have mentioned that there's a little farm at the down the street from where I work. My little buddy and I pass it everyday and we love to stop by and say hello to the owners and the farm animals (ie. ducks and chickens). The other day, Amy (the farm owner) took us to the chicken coup to visit with their latest addition, a little peep. It was super soft and cute and I couldn't resist snapping a quick photograph. I think I might have enjoyed seeing the fuzzy little thing more than my buddy did!

Lacey: While we were on vacation last week one of my favorite things we did was visit a cow farm. A cow farm for meat production (unfortch) but a cow farm all the same. I was so surprised by how curious the cows are, coming inches away from me to sniff my boots and lick my hand. These particular cows are Limousin cows (from Limoges)! Arent they pretty?

While I have your attention - I will go ahead and share the pictures from the farm I visited in Chateaubriant


The first group of cows we were introduced to were these little boy calves which I think we less than a year old. They were terribly skittish at first (reminded me of Hibou actually) but after a minute or two they would slowly creep forward for a closer look.


They were all housed in an open shelter - 6 to 7 of them per pen. Our gracious hostess showed us the feed she gives them, which is a mixture that she makes herself. She also explained a bit of how they raise the animals. These guys here stay in this pen for the first year and a half of their lives. This seemed a bit unreasonable to me but she explained that since its just her and her husband (and a few of her kids) working the farm - it would be impossible to have them out in the field because she would need to bring them back in every night. I still didn't quite get it.




This is LouLou. She's a bit special - in general and to her owner. LouLou is a fraternal twin. Sylvie explained that the Limousin breed of cow very rarely has twins. Even more rare is a Limousin cow who has fraternal twins. Lucky her you might be thinking. Well not exactly. There are two problems.

Problem number 1: the female half of fraternal twins can't ever get pregnant. Apparently during the time that they are developing in the womb - the female cow is subject to all the male hormones that the male cow needs - so much so that for whatever reason she is rendered infertile.

Problem number 2: Since Limousin cows very rarely have twins, they don't have the capacity to take care of two calves. Thus LouLou had to be bottle fed by Sylvie as a baby. Had she not taken care of LouLou herself its likely she would not have survived.

So you may be thinking - so big deal, she can't have calves. Its actually a huge huge deal for Sylvie. I didn't realize this before talking to her but female cows in France (I say in France because I have no idea how the system works in the US but I would bet its the same) are almost always pregnant. And it makes sense I suppose - baby cows means future hamburgers, so if a cow can't get pregnant she isn't producing more hamburgers to replace herself!

Technically - a cow like LouLou is a waste of time for Sylvie. She's not producing calves and she's just using up resources. But since Sylvie hand-fed her she decided to keep her and its apparent how much of a bond there is because as we walked out into the field Sylvie started yelling LouLou's name and there she was, slowly lopping her way over to be pet like a giant dog.


But the fact remains that LouLou will go to the laboratory one day - which is french for the slaughterhouse. We talked about it a little over a slice of cake and coffee later. She said it would without a doubt be a difficult thing for her to do. She had already sent a cow to slaughter before that she had a close relationship with, and that had hurt her. But in the end the cows are money - and letting LouLou die a natural death in the field is a loss of money.


When I got up close to them I was really surprised by how different they all looked. Different head shapes, different eyes, horns that twisted or turned in different directions.



After our tour of the place Sylvie invited us inside for some refreshments and we learned some things that I was completely unaware of and actually really reaffirmed my commitment to being a vegetarian.

In France 80% of female cows that go to slaughter are pregnant. This seemed crazy to me but Sylvie reminded us that they are almost constantly pregnant - and - the fetus doesn't get wasted. Alright prepare to be grossed out.

The umbilical fluid from an unborn calf is used to treat people with severe burns. Apparently its a substance full of nutrients (duh) that will help heal the burns without sticking to the skin.

More gross - the skin of an unborn calf is soft and supple and hair free. Sylvie says that the skin from her cows unborn calves goes to Paris where it is made into leather gloves for posh ladies.


Really though I did enjoy my visit to the farm. To see the animals up close and see how Sylvie works with them. She really has a lot of respect for them and told us that cows are intelligent creatures that will give you what you give them. She says her cows are patient and affectionate as long as she is patient and affectionate to them.

I was obviously already convinced of this fact - but seeing them in person and really being able to connect the hamburger at MacDo's to the curious, living, breathing animal in front of me was a really reaffirming experience for me.

Coast to Cote Week 19

Pang: On Sunday, I had a photo shoot in Frederick. We took a few photographs in Baker Park and saw this adorable geese family in the water. Simone, the model I was working with, walked over to the water's edge as the whole family waddled right over to us. They got so close and right in the way. It was almost like they were saying "we're ready for our close ups now!"

Lacey: I had the most amazing weekend. Paula and I had the absolute fortune to be invited up to Northern France to stay with Xavier (who lives in the same building as me part of the week) and Catherine (his wife). This is a picture from the first day of our trip during our 6 hour drive up to Chateaubriant. Xavier catered to our every whim, pulling over several times so we could visit windmills, climb into sarcophagi, and admire the nuclear silos. This was really the perfect way to close out my time in France.

You Will Miss Us

There were days during this experience as an assistant when I just wanted to roll over and stay in bed. There were days when I did just roll over and stay in bed (I had the flu, calm down). There were days when I dreaded teaching certain classes, and then days - sometimes the same day - when I couldn't wait to see how the kids would react to what I prepared.

My children love me in fact. Even the craphead kids. On my last week my kids presented me with all kinds of presents and hand made cards! I in turn presented them with (the demanded) cakes and treats that I love to make - banana bread and buttermilk cake.


This girl looks like a mini Natalie Portman - and she's a really great student too - never gave me any flack, even when we did kinda boring stuff like filling in a map of the US. Plus...she remembered Hibou in her drawing!


This card came from a girl who I thought was totally bored to death by me. Maybe she was bored to death so she decided to make this card instead of listen to me talk :)


Inside of the same card.


Did you know I was famous?


Obviously if my kids learned anything about me - they learned I have a cat named Hibou. Im satisfied.


This was my favorite - so cute translation wise. The reason its so adorable is because its translated the way they would say it in French. For example - when they say "You will miss us a lot," what they mean to say is "We will miss you a lot." But in French you change the positions. This is a mistake I made a lot learning French and I didn't actually learn it correctly until I came here this year. To say I miss you in French you say "tu me manque" - translated literally " you are missing to me".


Two of my little girls in the 6eme Euro (6th grade 2 hour English class) bought me this Limoges porcelain! It was so cute - as I unwrapped it they kept saying "It's fragile, It's fragile!" and then right before I took off the last of the paper one of the little gift givers leaned over and said "Do you drink tea?" Not one for surprises that one :)

Thank you children - you will miss me!

Lemony Goat Cheese Pasta with Sautéed Asparagus

Item # 3 of eating down the pantry : Pasta. I haven't been eating much pasta at all in France - Im just so obsessed with quesadillas and quiche and soup. But now it's time to finish it up. I was blog browsing and I came across a lemony goat cheese with asparagus pasta dish. Unfortunately I don't remember where I found it - sorry!



I made this dish for my birthday and invited Therese and Paula to come over and share it with me. I had been craving some asparagus ever since the last dinner in Italy when the 4 of us went to the market in Florence and made a huge going away dinner together. Plus, it's in season right now and veggies and fruits are always best in season.

So I trekked up to the market the morning of my birthday and ordered a kilo of asparagus. I had no idea how big a kilo would be - but its manageable once you cut the stems down. Plus - I was pleased to find that the asparagus that is grown here locally is a bit different than what we have at home....see below.


Does this look like an asparagus to you?


Have you ever zested with a potato peeler? Takes forever!

Lemony Goat Cheese Pasta with Sauteed Asparagus
Serves 4

1 kilo (2 and a half pounds I think) fresh asparagus, trimmed
1 large log of goat cheese
1 large lemon, zested
several cups of pasta (I always eyeball it)
1/4 cup olive oil plus 2 tbsp
1 tbsp herbs de provence
salt and pepper

1. Put a pot of water on the stove and bring it to a boil. Add the pasta and cook until al dente. When you drain the pasta reserve about a cup of the pasta water.
2. While the pasta is cooking, heat 2 tbsp olive oil in a large skillet. Add the asparagus, season with salt and pepper, and sauté until the asparagus is tender but not mushy,5-7 minutes.
3. In the pot you used for the pasta (which has now been drained and is still in the colander) combine the goat cheese, olive oil, herbs de provence and lemon zest. Mix well until the cheese has melted. Little by little add the reserved pasta water until you get the desired consistency.
4. Add the pasta back to the pot and mix well. Then fold in the asparagus and serve.


It may not be the prettiest dish you ever prepare but it's quite satisfying.


These pretty little flowers came from Therese. May Day in France is actually a national holiday, like our Labor Day - which means everything is closed and if it were not that way I guarantee you there would be strikes - but it also means that people are selling Muguet des Bois or Lily of the Valley in English! I found a really great explanation of this tradition on Paris Postcard that I really recommend you check out. She explains it so well I don't even want to bother trying!

I had a pretty lovely birthday and I closed out the day with drinks at the Bibliotheque with friends.

Coast to Cote Week 17

Sorry this is so late folks! I was on vacay. Also...sorry Im only uploading half the picture. I have tried about a million times to upload the whole image but there is something wrong with the file, so this is only my half. To see the full image go to Pang's page.







Pang: The weather couldn't be more perfect today. My buddy and I took a blanket and our lunches and headed up to the monument and had ourselves a grand ol' picnic. While taking photographs of our fun day, I noticed a paper crane hanging from the tree we were sitting under. I love finding little random beauties like this.

Me: Same idea as last week really. Documenting the things I see on a regular basis that will remind me of home when I go back to old home. Im going to be seeing a good bit of this in the next few weeks. This is our train station - down on the .....what's the word in English for voie? I forget. Anyhow, Limoges has one of the prettiest train stations in France (its documented as such! but this isnt a picture of the pretty part) and I really love living so close to it. Next week I will hopefully have a travel picture for you - but its supposed to rain in Barcelona. Keep your fingers crossed for me!

Les Bougeoirs

So recently I stumbled upon a new clothing/bric a brac shop in Limoges called J&M. The guy that owns the shop is Polish and speak great English and when Mariella and I came in and started gushing about the stuff he had he quickly struck up a conversation with us. A few days later I brought Alex and Anais back and fell upon these little candle holder and just had to have them.



The thing thats interesting is that in France there are not considered antiques. They really are just bric-a-brac and they cant be sold for much. I told the owner straight off that he should be doing business in America because he could get a lot more for this kind of stuff! I have my eye on a old fashioned French clock that you wind up with a key! Birthday present to myself?


And only 6 euros, what a steal!


Im bound to like anything in this color! I already have video ideas for when I get back of dark alleys and playing hide and seek by candle light! Cant wait to get home and film it!


This one was the second to catch my eye. I really couldnt decide between the two but since this one I felt was a little more masculine? (however masculine a candle holder can be), I decided to get this one for Ryan. That way I could buy both! I am absolutely prepared for him to tell me its not cool enough for him and then I can keep both :)

Coast to Cote Week 11

Pang: For as long as I can remember, I've been drawn to the beauty of a horse. Their eyes are so expressive and there's something mysterious about them. Horses aren't my favorite animals or anything, but I just really love photographing their faces. Last Friday I chaperoned on a field trip to a farm and got a great shot (or so I think) of a horse looking right at me. The midday sun was high and the temperature was climbing. I just wanted to reach in there and swat the flies from it's eyes. Pesky little flies.

Lacey: This weekend was so nice. I stayed out late every night and slept in late every morning. I felt like a rebellious teenager letting her dishes pile up in the sink and not making her bed. On Sunday the sun was shining just right into the girls bathroom in the school. I've been wanting to take pictures in this bathroom since the first day I came to Donzelot but am only just getting to it now. To express my weekend of reckless abandon I decided to follow the lead of the little French girls and write salope all over the walls. Kidding. But its surprising how many times its already been written on the walls. Come on girls!

Catacombs

You may recognize this from last weeks Coast to Cote.

Last weekend I went to Paris for a quick day trip with a few friends. I had planned on doing mostly museums for the day and getting some good food (which I did. Pad Thai is not to be had in Limoges so I profited in Paris). As we were driving into the city (we entered from the south) I recognized the Catacombs. Ryan and I had tried to visit them when he was in Paris in October and were bitterly disappointed to find them temporarily closed due to vandalism. When I saw a healthy line stretched out from the door of the Catacombs I knew they were open and suggested it to the group, who immediately got on board.


Just your typical dork.


My lovely Scottish lady: Paula


My Columbian room-mate Lizandro


Alexandru: our Romanian friend. We are so multicultural here in Limoges!


Trekking to the bones.


For a long time you walk through long carved out hallways until finally you get to this sign. It reads: Stop! This is the Empire of Death.



When you finally get into the bone section its really dark and hard to take pictures. They wont let you use flash because you might scare the ghosts but most tourists seem to ignore this rule. For the first 5 minutes of walking I was pretty impressed. Then I started feeling oppressed by the sheer number of bones. Its strange how they had them stacked. All you ever see is the thigh bone and the skull. Everything else is piled behind I suppose. I had no idea just how vast this place was. I read that millions of remains have been placed in the Catacombs. Originally the space was a quarry, but when conditions at the cemetery got unhealthy the city of Paris decided to move the bones underground. Im not sure at what point they decided to make them into the carefully stacked piles so people can visit them.

Seeing the Catacombs was definately a different experience but it was different from what I thought it would be. It was pretty humbling actually to see how many people have come before you and to think of all the people that will come after you and that in the end you are just a pile of bones (ashes for me!). The air was a bit moist and stale and after a bit Lizandro and Alexandro made a beeline for the exit to get some fresh air.


Just a tip: Dont bring your children here.